Stevenson's Trail Map and Itinerary

DAY1: ARRIVE LE PUY-EN-VELAY

The ancient medieval town, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is dominated by 3 ‘Puys’ (steep volcanic plugs) crowned by the massive statue of Mary, the ancient Cathedral and St Michel’s chapel. Almost unchanged in a 1000 years the medieval houses, alleys and steep-streets nestling below are bustling with shops traditional lace making, little restaurants and café terraces.

Overnight: As you’ll stay privately with one of our hostesses in their own historic home you’ll have a unique chance to soak up the atmosphere and discover the town floodlit at night. Or maybe take the gourmet dinner option at Du Parc.

DAY 2: LE MONASTIER-SURGAZEILLE TO LE BOUCHET-STNICOLAS

14 mls / 23km. 6hr15. +460 m, -175 m.

(Private transfer from Le Puy to Monastier)

Where RLS had to jettison the egg whisk and a leg of mutton.

Your adventure in Stevenson’s footsteps begins! Descend to cross the Gazeille River before climbing to Courmarcés and St-Martin-deFugéres by ancient lanes and byways. Cross the gorge of the Loire at Goudet (ideal spot for picnic lunch) to reach the high volcanic plateau. On passed several small hamlets set amidst a patchwork of black volcanic soil and green fields of Puy lentils to the isolated hamlet of Le Bouchet Saint Nicolas.

Overnight: Tonight’s modest auberge, owned by the local farming Villeseche family, is a rendezvous for walkers and locals alike or sometimes we stay in one of the little village houses. Local style dinner and breakfast included

DAY 3: LE BOUCHET-ST-NICOLAS TO LANGOGNE

17 mls / 27km. 6.45hrs. +315 m. -575 m.

When RLS got a goad and things start to go more smoothly!

Today the high plateau ridge to the market town of Landos is followed by super walking via Arquejol & the railway viaduct, crossing a deep ravine. Detouring briefly, you can reach Rocher de la Fagette (1265) with distant views to rounded volcanic mountain tops, Naussac reservoir and nearby historic Pradelles, follow. We recommend a stop in at Stephanie’s café on the square in the austerely beautiful Pradelle before descending to the larger market town of Langogne. (pop 3282)

Overnight: Despite the main road it remains a backwater reminiscent of a bygone era. We usually stay in the somewhat faded grandeur of the old coaching Hotel, or take a taxi the short drive to the holiday village, stunningly located on the lake. Dinner is included in both.

DAY 4: LANGOGNE TO CHEYLARD L’ÉVEQUE 

10 mls / 16km. 4.10hrs. +320 m, -150 m

When RLS became hopelessly lost thanks to two villages with confusingly similar names.

Undulating walking by dark forests and small streams crossed by ancient humpback bridges as you discover the remote Gévaudan countryside. Passing Saint-Flour-de-Mercoire (1049m) and the Cathedral-like Mercoire forest to Sagne-Rousse, where RLS got hopelessly lost. Later, an ancient sunken track descends to the remote hamlet of Cheylard L’Eveque.

Overnight: In the charming local Auberge with typical regional dinner served at long tables bustling with fellow walkers from around the world and a hearty breakfast

DAY 5: CHEYLARD L’ÉVEQUE TO LA BASTIDE-PUYLAURENT

12 mls / 18.5 km. 5hrs45. +240 m, -380 m (14.5mls / 23.5 kms 7hrs for Monastery)

Where RLS met Father Apollinaris and overcame his terror.

Fine valley walking today through rolling hills and forests by Les Pradels to breathtaking views of the distant Blue Cévennes Mountains. Joining the medieval route to Luc before descending by rough mule track into the Allier valley and the Ardeche department at Laveyrune. An hour further on and the route divides for the Monastery or the small village of La Bastide.

Overnight: You may choose to stay at either place. We usually stay with Florence and Pascal at their Hotel in the centre of La Bastide, which is modest, simple and welcoming with dinner included. However one of the highlights of this trail is the Trappist Monastery of Notre Dame des Neige, where RLS spent a night, attended church services, enjoying the company of the monks after overcoming his initial terror of the place! Today they have a small number of monastic style rooms available with dinner and are famous for their wine called Fleur des Neige. We always leave with a pot of their delicious honey.

DAY 6: LA BASTIDE-PUYLAURENT TO LE BLEYMARD

17mls / 26.1km. 7.5hrs or 17 mls / 28klm. 8hrs +300M – 160M

Where RLS gets a bed to himself.

This is the longest and highest walking day of the trail so far. First by La Mourade, (1308m), fine high country walking and stunning panoramic views south to the Cévennes mountains. Then through the majestic Forest Domaniale de la Gardille to Chabalier, the historic hamlet of Chasserades, and tiny Mirandol with its distinctive ‘Lauzes’ roof tiles and massif 30m Viaduct. The forest-covered Goulet Massif is the first major climb on the trail and more than rewarded by the breathtaking panorama. (1413m) La Bleymard, gateway to the Cevennes National Park, lies below via the drove road, ‘La Drailles des Mulets’ and a steep decent by the source of the Lot River to La Bleymard. (pop 389)

Overnight: You either stay with Tiny at her delightful chalet home before the decent into the village or maybe with Claude and Jean-Francois is the heart of the village at their busy, simple hotel. Dinner included.

Possible to divide today’s walk with stop over at Chasserades (1150m) 7.5 mls /12 kms, approx. 3.5 hrs, +330 m, -160 m. Then Chasserades to Bleymard 8.5 mls /14 kms, approx 4.5 hrs

DAY 7: LE BLEYMARD TO LE PONTDE-MONTVERT

12mls / 19km. 6hrs. +630 m, -824 m.

Where RLS spent the night under the stars

The old drove road climbs steeply through pine forests by the Col Santel (1200) before emerging at the Mont Lozère Chalet, ski station. The barren Finiels summit, over 5000ft. (1699m), the highest point in the Cevennes and the trail, lies ahead. Ancient standing stones, or Montjoies, mark the route as the awe-inspiring panorama of the Cevennes as Stevenson’s ‘Cevennes de Cevennes’, opens up below.

Descending the rough steep track through the photogenic scattered boulders, or chaos, to the lively mountain village of Pont-de-Montvert (pop 302) and its renowned humpback bridge over the High Tarn. The 18 th C. Camisard’s war that broke-out here so fascinated RLS that, by following in their footsteps, he became for many, the ‘Father’ of today’s walkers.

Overnight: Sometimes we can’t resist stopping 3 km before to stay in the delightful mountain hamlet of Finiels at Jacqueline B&B with her lovely dinners or we can sometimes enjoy theuse of the barbecue terrace at Jean-Marc’s spacious mini ‘maison’ just over the bridge in Montvert where dinner is not included.

DAY 8: LE PONT-DE-MONTVERT TO FLORAC

17.5 mls /28km 8hrs +545 m, - 875 m. (option to shave 4 kms off this day)

Where RLS had lunch with 3 women and flirted with the waitress!

Walking doesn’t come much better than this as we head into the heart of the Cévennes and the capital, Florac. This, the longest hiking day, with energetic ascents and descents, rewards us with daylong spectacular views. By the Bouges Ridge and summit (1421m), & Col du Sapet (1080m), with its mysterious standing stones before dropping down to Bedoués (560m) and Florac (pop1998). Here the confluence of 3 rivers, which cascade merrily through the crumbling old historic quarter, give a feel of Venice. (If the day is too long you can shave 4klms off its end by the GR68.)

Overnight: In the local hotel, renowned for it’s great food or at Veronique and Denis’s historic B&B, with restaurant below, in the heart of the quaint old quarter.

DAY 9: FLORAC TO CASSAGNAS

11 mls / 17.4km. 5hrs. +200m, -50m.

Where Stevenson had lunch in the company of a gendarme and a merchant

With spectacular scenery all day the first part is a challenging walk by hills and balcony paths among the red-rock scenery of the Mimenti valley up to by Saint-Julien-D’Arpaon. By contrast the enchanting countryside following the gorge along the disused railway track to Cassagnas, makes for a delightful stroll.

Overnight: We’re spoilt for choice here, sometimes heading to Isabelle’s Gipsy Caravans or drinking in the scenery from the tranquil garden at Stephanie’s B&B. However our favourite is to carry on to Le Chateau du Cauvel, either by walking the extra 8 km or having hopped a lift part route with the bags in the morning!

DAY 10: CASSAGNAS TO ST- ÉTIENNE-VALLEY-FRANÇAISE

14mls /22.5km 4.45hrs. +320m, -710m.

Chestnuts! Forested Camisards country among the Chestnut trees as the trail circles below the watershed of Mount Mars (1162m) making the easy climb to La Plan de Fontmort before we join various other forested GR trails to arrive at the Col de la Pierre Plantee (891m) and the last of our mysterious standing stones. Descending down to Le Serre de la Can and St -Germain-deCalberte before joining a pleasant ancient track following the chestnut groves to the valley and St -Etienne-Valley-Française.

Overnight: Either we stay at the fascinating goat farm where they make amazing cheese or with Madame Thomas at her B&B in this typical village with dinner arranged in the local bistro.

DAY 11: ST-ÉTIENNE-VALLEYFRANÇAISE TO ST-JEAN-DU-GARD

8.5mls. / 12.5km 7.15hr. +350m, -410m.

A long climb up to Col de Saint-Pierre (597m) and Signal de Saint-Pierre (695) is rewarded by the breathtaking 360 panorama of the Cévennes mountains. Downhill to the pretty hamlet of Piedde-Cote to join the Gardon river walk and by the ancient bridge into the main town of St Jean du Gard, where Stevenson sold his donkey Modestine.

Overnight: Our historic hotel is where Stevenson caught the stagecoach, set amidst the bustle of this Mediterranean influenced town. Tonight we’ll toast RLS and our amazing travels with a glass or two and maybe a delightful dinner in the restaurant next-door.

DAY 12 ST JEAN DU GARD

After a light breakfast it’s ‘Au Revoir’ to Stevenson’s Trail.

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