Walking Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Start this walking adventure on the western side of the Portofino Peninsula, within the small laid-back village of Camogli, easily reached from Genoa Airport by train (taking around an hour). This picturesque seafront village is a hidden gem on the Riviera di Levante, offering gorgeous setting, fresh Italian cuisine, and close proximity to Portofino. Roam the local shops or take a peaceful walk along the oceanfront promenade for stunning views of fishing boats gently bobbing along the rocky coastline.

Tonight, experience the quintessential Italian hospitality within our quaint accommodation which boasts a warm welcome to walkers.

The day begins with a short transfer (15 mins) to the Church of San Rocco, to commence the walk along mountain paths and through pine forest alongside the Mediterranean Sea. Pause at the Port of San Fruttuoso to explore the 11th century stone abbey. From here continue walking or alternatively catch the ferry (payable locally) to the fishing village of Portofino on the other side of the bay and spend an afternoon exploring.

On the walk towards Portofino, reach Il Faro, a lighthouse located at the headland of Portofino or up to Castello Brown, a 16th-century fortress and art museum with spectacular vistas. Spend some time in the iconic town of Portofino, which is favoured by the operatic powerhouses, Luciano Pavarotti and Andrea Bocelli, before taking the ferry back to Camogli. Wave ciao (goodbye) to the colourful panoramas of Portofino, escaping the crowds, and heading back to the idyllic coastal hideaway in nearby Camogli.

Shorter walk to San Fruttuoso: 6kms/4mi Ascent/Descent: 587m/791m

Walk to Portofino: 10kms/6mi Ascent/Descent: 587m/791m

There is the option of not walking today and exploring Camogli or taking a ferry to/from Portofino to spend the day there. If you decide to take this option, then please notify us prior to travel, so that the transfer driver isn’t left waiting for you at your accommodation.

Transfer from Camogli to Deiva Marina (50 mins). This quiet seaside town in the province of La Spezia, is surrounded by wide sandy beaches and lush green mountains. Walk through Deiva Marina and into the dramatic landscape of the hills of the east riviera for wonderful views over the northern Ligurian coast to Bonassola, where the mountains meet the sea.

There’s the option to shorten todays walk with a stopover in Framura, to sample a long lunch before taking a train to Bonassola. After time in peaceful Framura the walk continues to Bonassola. Why not finish the walk with a refreshing dip in the cool blue waters off the beach of Bonassola, and perhaps a glass of wine or a spritz in a seafront restaurant before catching the train to Monterosso, in the Cinque Terre.

Shorter walk to Framura: 4kms/3mi and Ascent/Descent: 577m/587m

Walk to Bonassola: 11kms/7mi Ascent/Descent: 577m/587m

Take a train to Bonassola this morning to begin the walk along the old railway tracks recently transformed into an even, easy walking path. Enjoy an array of terrain as the path travels through tunnels, over bridges, and along the rugged coastline into the green interior valley of Levanto. The idyllic village of Levanto’s skyline is pierced by church spires and towers. From here it’s possible to shorten the walk by taking a train back to Monterosso.

Leaving the railway path behind and heading onto the mountain paths. Upon reaching the ridgetop at Colla Bagari, take a moment to absorb the sweeping views of the rolling mountains surrounding the “Gulf of Paradise” and the Cinque Terre villages that the walk will be heading through over the coming days. Arriving at Punta Mesco, descending along olive groves and vines to Monterosso, with its large sandy beach and calm waters. Why not take a refreshing paddle to cool your feet after a good day’s walking.

Shorter walk to Levanto: 4kms/3mi and Ascent/Descent: 72m/60m

Walk to Monterosso: 11kms/7mi Ascent/Descent: 588m/593m

Alternatively, for anyone not wishing to walk today why not spend the day relaxing on the beach, a seafront bar, or wandering around the colourful street in Monterosso, the first of the Cinque villages explored on this trip.

With the included Cinque Terre Trails & Rail Card in hand it’s time this morning to hop on the train, sit back and enjoy the views over the sea on the way to Manarola (trains depart about every 30 minutes). Manarola is widely thought to be the most charming and beautiful of the Cinque Terre villages with its colourful buildings clinging to the cliff edge, the terraced green hillside above, and the azure blue waters colliding with the rocky coastline below. Since todays walk is the shortest on the trip there’s amble time to explore the village and perhaps have lunch in one of the many restaurants and cafes found here.

The walk this afternoon uses the original path linking the villages of Manarola and Riomaggiore. Although the villages are quite close together there is a mountain separating them, so the trail although short in distance is a steep ascent and descent including many stone steps. Thanks to the high position the Via Beccara path does afford amazing sea views over the dramatic Cinque Terre coastline including a bird’s eye view of Manarola and Riomaggiore. The path climbs pass the terraced vineyards along the mountainside.

After time to explore Riomaggiore, take the train back to Monterosso.

This evening, dine “al fresco” at one of the many delicious restaurants lining the piazza and historic centre, especially for a hot pot of freshly caught steamed seafood, a Ligurian specialty.

Ascent/Descent: 191m/194m

Alternatively, for anyone not wanting to walk today there’s the choice of spending time in Monterosso or using the included Cinque Terre Trails & Rail Card to ride the rails and explore Manarola and Riomaggiore this way instead of doing the mountain walk.

Please note that the alternative path Via dell'Amore from Manarola and Corniglia is currently closed due landslide and therefore not possible to use. It's scheduled to re-open in summer 2024.

After breakfast, take the train to Corniglia for a steep, but well worth it, walk back to Monterosso. Corniglia is the quietest, and least crowded of the Cinque Terre villages, making its backstreets a delight to wander through before beginning the walk.

Follow the path as it goes up-and-down to Vernazza, the most perfect picture postcard of the villages. This fortified village is the only natural harbour in the Cinque Terre and is still used by fisherman with their boats bobbing in the protected waters surrounded by the elegant, colourful buildings. Some of the original village walls and the Doria Castle watch tower remain today, which were used to defend this valuable resource. This historic fishing community is also home to Santa Margherita d’Anticochia Church, the Sanctuary of our Lady of Regio, and the Convent of the Reformed Fathers of St. Francis. There is the option of leaving the walk here and taking the train back to Monterosso.

The walk continues to follow the panoramic path from Vernazza to Monterosso giving yet more wonderful seascape views along the way. On arrival back in Monterosso cool down with a tasty gelato.

Shorter walk to Vernazza: 4kms/3mi and Ascent/Descent: 449m/472m

Walk to Monterosso: 8kms/5mi Ascent/Descent: 449m/472m

Alternatively, for anyone not wishing to walk today it’s possible to take the train from Monterosso to Corniglia and Vernazza, to explore the villages this way instead.

To begin the final walk, take the train back to Riomaggiore to walk out of Cinque Terre and into the hillside bordering Portovenere. The town is another UNESCO World Heritage Site and artist haven that’s inspired painters, musicians, and literary greats such as Byron and D.H. Lawrence.

Walk to Colle del Telgrafo following the ridgeline to Campiglia and descend to Portovenere with its brightly coloured houses. Stacked side-by-side, these houses, once served as a united wall aimed to withstand attacks from pirates (look closely and it’s possible to still see the holes and marks that scar its sides) and are now one of Portovenere’s iconic treasures.

Visit the black-and-white striped Gothic Church of St. Peter, its nearby cemetery, and the stone fortress overlooking the Gulf of Poets.

Ascent/Descent: 634m/653m

Alternatively, depending on the day of the week, it is possible to travel by ferry from Riomaggiore to Portovenere instead of walking.

Depending on travel arrangements, we suggest adding an extra day to spend more time exploring Portovenere’s labyrinth walls, taking a boat to nearby Palmaria Island, or unwinding by the sea.

To depart from Portovenere there is a local bus or taxis to La Spezia. From here take a to Genoa, Pisa, or Florence airports.