Full Camino Le Puy Way

Arrive in the historic city of Le Puy-en-Velay which has been a pilgrimage centre since the Middle Ages. Spend time here exploring the sites within this city that is set in a volcanic plateau and is famed for its rocky peaks which rise out of the valley. After checking into your comfortable hotel, why not climb the 267 steps up to the Chapel of St Michael d’Aiguilhe, built by Godescalc who made the pilgrimage to Santiago in AD951. Also view the Romanesque cathedral and wander through Le Puy’s narrow, characterful streets.

The walk today begins at the cathedral and from here, and as you follow the trail, you will see wonderful views over the whole area. This morning you will cross the Velay, an area famous for its lentils and black sheep. Later this afternoon arrive in St Privat d’Allier, from where you will receive a transfer 7km to the lovely village of Monistrol d’Allier.

Transfer from Monistrol to St Privat to rejoin the Camino. During today’s walk you will pass through widely differing countryside, such as the Allier gorges and a volcanic plateau of great natural beauty. Climb a tiny chapel dedicated to St James perched atop a rocky belvedere and past the Madeleine Chapel, which was carved out of the rock in the 17th century.

Today you discover the Margeride Plateau with its characteristic villages, secluded hamlets, ancient stone crosses and pastures hemmed in by stone walls. Each village has charming features such as granite houses with carved doorways and cottage gardens. 1 km off the main track, you will come to the village of Les Faux and your accommodation for the night.

This morning continue across the plateau of the Margeride as far as Aumont, which is the gateway to the Aubrac. Between Le Rouget, which takes its name from the typical red-roofed houses of the area. See pretty hamlets, and churches with ‘comb-style’ belfries, before arriving in Aumont Aubrac, a small town and where you can see the former Benedictine priory and Romaneque church of Saint Etienne.

Today is long day of walking once more but it is worth it as you leave behind the Margeride Plateau and begin to cross the Aubrac Plateau, a wide expanse of pastures, old barns, drystone walls, and swathes of wildflowers, depending on the season. Later arrive in Nasbinals, where there is a superb 14th century Romanesque church built of brown basalt.

Begin your walk by making your way down the Boraldes Valley and then pass through the village of Aubrac, which was founded in 1120 by a Flemish knight, Adelard de Flandres. Then pass a large wooden cross and head along a grassy track which becomes a walled lane and walk into the hamlet of Belvezet. Cross the Aude and descend steadily into St Chely d’Aubrec, your final destination for today.

At the heart of the village of St Chely d’Aubrec is the church, extended in the 19th century and which holds two incredible altar pieces, a copy of the painting The Descent from the Cross by Rubens and a 14th century bas-relief representing Christ and his Apostles, exhibited at the Musée du Louvre in 2009. See these exquisite pieces of art before crossing the old bridge over the Boraldes River and continuing into the the heart of the Lot Valley.

Today’s incredible walk between St Côme d’Olt and Estaing in the upper valley, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Pitched roofs of hand-hewn tiles called lauzes blend in harmony with bejeweled Romanesque churches along this pilgrim route to Compostela. Ancient vineyards here are spread out along terraces and on arrival in Estaing you cross the famous Pont Gothique and see the wrought iron cross and the statue of Francois d’Estaing.

This morning includes a 350 m ascent to Golinhac were you will find the Church of St Martin set on the site of a 9th century Benedictine abbey. From here pass through small hamlets and spot wooden balconies of old riverside tanneries, window boxes full of colourful geraniums and prosperous bourgeois town houses.

Walk through woods climbing quite steeply and then veer off on a lane that directs you alongside the woods and which undulates between fields. Pass Fontromieu and the Church of Saint-Marcel before arriving in Conques, a village that rises steeply from a conch-shaped valley. As today is a relatively short walking day you will be able to spend the remainder of your day in Conques.

Today begins with a gradual climb to the Chapel St. Foy, built next to a spring whose natural water was supposed to cure eye complaints. Set out on the next part of the trail to St. Roch Chapel, where the statue of this saint carries a pilgrimage staff and from where, a mile or so later, you reach the village of Noaillhac.

Here the trail levels out and you begin making your descent into Decazeville and onwards into the village of Livinhac, which used to be known as the garden of Aveyron because of it’s fertile fields next to the River Lot.

En route to Figeac a place full of rich history you will pass through the picturesque hilltop village of Montredon, in which stands the Church of St Michael where you can view 14th century mural paintings. You can also see the 11th century Church of St Felix where there is a tympanum of Adam and Eve with a serpent and a tree.

Continue on through the countryside (you are now in the Lot region) before arriving into the historic town of Figeac, founded in 830 around a Benedictine abbey and for the past 20 years recognised as one of France’s historic towns by the Ministry of Culture. 

You will have to begin walking early today as this is the longest walk of your tour at 30km. Have a big breakfast as sustenance, then begin by taking a path uphill to the L’Aiguille du Cingle. This unusual obelisk-type structure is said to have been built as a beacon guiding pilgrims. However another story relates that they were used as boundaries between abbot’s territories. There is one other structure such as this in France and it is to the west of Figeac.  

Continue walking past Faycelles and into Béduer. It's is here where the landscape changes and you will come across many dolmens (megalithic tombs from the Neolithic period), plus dry-stoned walls and stone shepherds huts. The landscape here is quite wild and depending on the season, you will encounter carpets of orchids and the scent of herbs and wild strawberries.

Later arrive into Cajarc, a village that sits on the edge of the River Lot and that rose to fame due to barges that took spices, wine, wood and saffron along the river.

After yesterday’s long walk today is much easier and you enjoy walking at your own pace through this lovely rural area of France. First follow the meandering River Lot before arriving on the lush plain of Gaillac. Today you will cross the Quercy de Limogne. This area becomes very remote, so remember to take plenty of water and a packed lunch with you! After a lovely day of walking past dry stone walls and huts and fields of purple orchids that are grown to produce saffron (these flowers bloom in the autumn). Shortly you will arrive in Limogne-en-Quercy and check in to your welcoming accommodation.

This particular stage of the walk takes us off the GR65 for a while so that we can spend an overnight in Lalbenque. First head through the hamlets of La Plane, Mas de Dégot and Mas de Vers. En route you will also see many more dolmen, dry-stone walls and shepherds huts, which are very typical of this area. Lalbenque itself has a church which was built in 1090 and is famed for its 17th century gilded wooden alterpiece. They also hold has a weekly black truffle market (every Tuesday) and a farmer’s market on a Saturday.

Today is your final day of walking through these beautiful and ancient rural routes of France. Firstly walk along a typical walled and semi-shaded lane. It is important to pay attention to signposts on this particular section. On arrival in La Marchande you will walk downhill from here into Cahors, which is surrounded on three sides by the River Lot and an important stop on this pilgrimage route.

Take time on arrival to discover the varying sights here such as Cathedral of St-Etienne with its amazing cloisters, several interesting churches and the Pont Valentré, the finest fortified medieval bridge in Europe.

Cross the medieval bridge of Pont Valentré and climb the staircase to the cross of Pech d’Angely from which you can take your last look at Cahors before setting off on the trail to Labastide-Marnhac. Continue along uplands and through woodlands passing the hamlet of Baffalie before arriving in Lascabanes, a prosperous village. Walk along a roman road and past the forest chapel of St Jean before arriving in Montcuq, to today’s destination.

Spend time this morning exploring the distinctive fortess in Montcuq and then head towards Rouillac which you pass on your right hand side. Emerge briefly onto an open plateau before arriving in Montlauzen and into the department of Tarn et Garonne. Lauzerte is next, a bastide hill town dating from the 12th century. See it’s medieval houses and two churches, one of which has a modern statue of St James as a pilgrim inside. Cross three bridges, then pass a dovecote and the Church of Saint-Sermin-du-Bosc which was restored in 1991 and onwards to Durfort.

Upon leaving Durfort (which surprisingly has no church) you will walk under the branches of apricot and plum trees. If you are walking in the correct season you will be able to pick some for lunch. Locals also put out big jugs of cold water along the route for travellers and pilrgrims, which you can stop and drink when you are thirsty. Then descend to a stream and walk up to a ridge before arriving in Moissac which is dominated by it’s Abbey Church of St Pierre.

This morning the trail takes you along the River Tarn, cross a lockgate and then continues onto Boudou, from which there is a viewpoint over the surrounding countryside. Next walk through the hamlet of Timbrune before arriving in the delightful village of Auvillar which has a charming cobblestone plaza and a medieval circular market. This town overlooks the River Garonne and is classified as one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages.

As you depart from Auvillar walk along the Rue de l’Horloge and under the archway beneath the clock. Entering the Gers region you then walk through the quaint villages of Bardigues, St Antoine, and Flamarens where you can see its12th century castle, part of which was destroyed by fire in 1945. The undulating countryside in this area consists mainly of cornfields and row upon row of sunflowers. After a picnic lunch and perhaps some refreshments in a local café you arrive into Miradoux, the oldest bastide in the Gers.

Today is your final day of walking through these beautiful and ancient rural routes of France. Depart from Miradoux this morning and walk past the Chateaux de Fieux and then Castet Arrouy, which means red castle and originally the site of a small fort. Continue past the church and walk along grassy tracks, through farms and past a very large wayside cross before arriving in Lectoure. As today is a relatively short walking day you should have time to explore this town which was once an important stopping point on this pilgrimage route. It sits high above the Gers River and has a 15th century cathedral built after Louis XI destroyed the previous one. It also has a striking tower with a round turret attached to the bell-tower.

This morning head firstly towards Marsolan, where you can find the remains of l’Hôpital St Jacques at the entrance to the village. It is worth stopping here as the view from the terrace over the Auchie Gascon and the surrounding countryside is superb. Once past Marsolan continue on following a track downhill until you come across the Chapelle d’Abrin, a former commandery of the Knights Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem and now a private house.

Pass a lake and go through some woods, before arriving in La Romieu, which takes its name from the romieux or pilgrims that used to pass through. This village has an enormous church comparative to its size, which indicates it’s former importance. The cloisters in the church are well worth a visit. 

On departing from La Romieu, and as you walk, there will be terrific views over the surrounding countryside as in this part of La Gers the landscape is very open. After a short climb you will reach the small village of Castelnau-sur-l’Auvignon and the Chapelle Sainte-Germaine de Soldanum, the remains of a former monastery. Here is a good place to take a rest before continuing onto Condom, a medieval town.

The highlight in Condom is the Cathedral of St Pierre, built at the end of the 14th century, which has an ornately carved entrance and the outside of which is slightly unusual in style. Take time here to wander through the narrow streets of the old town, perhaps stopping in a local café for an aperitif.

Le Carbon is your first point of call today and it is perhaps worth taking a slight detour (15 minutes in each direction) to get to the tiny fortified town of Larresingle. This was the fortress of the Bishops of Condom in the Middle Ages and when you are here you will see that little has changed and it is like you are back in medieval times.

Today you will also cross the Pont d’Artigues, originally a Roman bridge over the River Osse and also pass by the oldest church in this region, Eglise de Routges. Notice the small door at the side of the church which was used as an entrance by Cagots, an outcast population who lived segregated lives until the end of the 19th century due to the fact that they may have been leprous, unclean, or bearers of evil. Arrive in Montreal du Gers, your overnight stop.

This morning you may like to spend some time discovering Montreal du Gers, a typical bastide town and on the northern limits of the Gers department. This town has a classic arcaded market place, ramparts and many interesting houses. From here walk to Lamothe and view its 13th century guard tower. Continue on through quiet countryside and vineyards before arriving in Eauze, a former Roman colony and now the capital of Armagnac.

As you depart from Eauze walk with the church on your right and then continue down a minor road and along a grassy track. Pass by a small farm before arriving in Manciet which has a rural bullring used for cattle races. Pass an interesting church, formerly belonging to the Order of the Knights of Malta and by an 18th century milestone that has a Malteses cross.

Arrive into Nogaro, which takes its name from Nogarium, meaning a place planted with walnuts. This small town was established in the 11th century and has a Romanesque church and a bullring.

Today is your final day of walking through these ancient rural routes of France. This day has more walking than the other days on the tour so it recommended that you have an early start. Initially pass by the small farms of La Grange, Bidet and Micoulas. Perhaps you would like to stop for a shady rest in the church porch of Lanne-Soubiran before perhaps having lunch in the in Barcelonne du Gers.

After lunch is the last stretch and here vineyards become rarer and the landscape changes to an area that is tree covered with maritime pines, oaks and chestnuts. Arrive into Aire sur l’Adour, an ancient town of two parts and your final destination.

Walking in the Landes region is quite easy has this area is quite flat. The route continues to be waymarked with blue and yellow cockle shell stickers as well as the familiar red and white balises.

You will see your first view of the snow-capped Pyrenees today as you enter the department of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques. Your first stop is Pontet and en route you also pass the magnificent 11th century Church of Miramont Sensacq formerly dedicated to St James and which contains a total immersion font for christening infants. Arrive in Miramont Sensacq, your overnight stop.

On departing Miramont Sensacq you reach Arzacq-Arraziguet, a bastide town with two main squares. This town has an interesting beginning as when it was founded in the 13th and 14th centuries it was actually in France and not in the Béarn, which was then an independent country. This town used to mark the boundary between France and Béarn.

Pass the modern Church of St Martin in Louvigny and follow the road along the ridge until you reach Fichous-Riumayou and eventually Larreule, the site of a Benedictine monastery founded in 995. The name of this town derives from the word Le Règle meaning monastic rule. When you reach Larreule you must call the hotel owner and he will come to find you and take you to Casteide Candau.

Today the hotel owner will transport you to Pomps so that you may continue on the trail. Pomps has a 17th century church with an interesting octagon-shaped tower. In Castillon there is a an 11th century church of St Pierre that was used as a hospital for pilgrims and travellers at that time. The restored Romanesque Chapelle of Caubin, which you also pass by, is on the site of the remains of a former Commandery of the Knight of St John.

Also walk through the long and narrow town of Arthez-de-Béarn (nearly 2km from one end to the other!) which is situated along a ridge. See some interesting old houses and ramparts, remnants from the Wars of Religion.

This morning you will encounter one of the greatest sights of the Camino Le Puy Way, the Cistercian Abbey of Sauvelade, founded by Gaston IV of Béarn in 1128. Before reaching the abbey follow the Gave de Pau from which there are stunning views over the faraway mountains.

Upon reaching Sauvelade it is worth stopping to view the abbey and its statue of St James before continuing on through the farmyard of Labarthe. Then cross a ford before arriving in the medieval bastide town of Navarranx with its rustic and elegant houses. In former times this town had a large population of cagot (outcasts), many of whom became important public figures in the 20th century. Its Italian–style fortifications have lasted until this day and it is worth strolling through this charming and historic town.

As you depart the fortified town of Navarrenx you cross a bridge over the river and head towards Castenau-Camblong with its Béarn-style houses. You will pass two chateaux today, Montgaston and Joantho, the former you can visit, but the latter is privately owned. Once you get close to Lichos you have now crossed from the Béarn into French Basque country. Over the next few days, as you walk from one region to the next, the change in landscapes from green wooded hillsides to steep farm country with lofty conifers becomes more and more apparent.

As Lichos is off the GR65 footpath you will need to read your map carefully this morning to get back on the main route. As you reach south of Lichos and back on the GR65 path you will see the Stele de Gibraltar to the right, a stone cross that marks where the three French Camino routes of Le Puy, Vezelay and Tours were thought to have met. Now officially in the Basque country many of the signs are written in the Basque language and in every town and village there is a pelota court (a traditional Basque game).

En route to Larceveau you will also go through Ostabat-Asme, a small village today, but in the Middle Ages it was a very important gathering point for pilgrims coming along the different routes. At this time in history the hospitals and inns along the route were able to accommodate up to 5000 pilgrims at a time, but today there is just a gite d’etape and the Maison Optalier.

Arrive into Larceveau where you anticipate your last day of walking along the trail tomorrow and into St Jean Pied de Port.

Today is the last stage of the Camino le Puy Way and as you walk along you are constantly greeted with magnificent views of the snow-capped Pyrenees.

Walk through Ainchice Mongelos and see the ancient chapel of Bustince before walking uphill through St Jean le Vieux and arriving in St Jean Pied de Port, your final destination. It is a small town, only 8km from the border of Spain and has ancient cobbled streets  and several places of interest, such as the Citadelle, and the Prison des Evêques. Also note the houses built in the Basque-style that have ornate wooden overhangs at roof level. Just as other pilgrims have done you will enter the town along the GR65 by the Porte St Jacques.

Bid farewell to the Camino Le Puy today. After breakfast check out of your hotel and make your onward journey.