Walking Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Start this hiking adventure on the western side of the Portofino Peninsula, within the small laid-back village of Camogli, easily reached from Genoa Airport (GOA) by train (taking around an hour). This picturesque seafront village is a hidden gem on the Riviera di Levante, offering gorgeous setting, fresh Italian cuisine, and close proximity to Portofino. Roam the local shops or take a peaceful walk along the oceanfront promenade for stunning views of fishing boats gently bobbing along the rocky coastline.

Tonight, experience the quintessential Italian hospitality within our quaint accommodation which boasts a warm welcome to hikers.

The day begins with a short transfer (15 mins) to the Church of San Rocco, to commence the hike along mountain paths and through pine forest alongside the Mediterranean Sea. Pause at the Port of San Fruttuoso to explore the 11th century stone abbey. From here continue hiking or alternatively catch the ferry (payable locally) to the fishing village of Portofino on the other side of the bay and spend an afternoon exploring.

On the route towards Portofino, reach Il Faro, a lighthouse located at the headland of Portofino or up to Castello Brown, a 16th-century fortress and art museum with spectacular vistas. Spend some time in the iconic town of Portofino, which is favored by the operatic powerhouses, Luciano Pavarotti and Andrea Bocelli, before taking the ferry back to Camogli. Wave ciao (goodbye) to the colorful panoramas of Portofino, escaping the crowds, and heading back to the idyllic coastal hideaway in nearby Camogli.

There is the option of not hiking today and exploring Camogli or taking a ferry to/from Portofino to spend the day there. If you decide to take this option, then please notify us prior to travel, so that the transfer driver isn’t left waiting for you at your accommodation.

Shorter hike to San Fruttuoso: 6 km (4 mi) Ascent/Descent: 308 m/517 m (1010 ft/ 1696 ft)

Hike to Portofino: 10 km (6 mi) Ascent/Descent: 587 m/791 m (1925 ft/ 2595 ft)

Today starts with a transfer from Camogli to Deiva Marina (50 mins). This quiet seaside town in the province of La Spezia is surrounded by wide sandy beaches and lush green mountains. Hike through Deiva Marina and into the dramatic landscape of the hills of the east riviera for wonderful views over the northern Ligurian coast to Bonassola, where the mountains meet the sea.

There’s the option to shorten today's hike with a stopover in Framura, where you can explore and enjoy a nice lunch before taking a train to Bonassola. If you are continuing on foot, after a break in peaceful Framura, the hike continues on to Bonassola. Reward yourself at the end of your day with a refreshing dip in the cool blue waters off the beach of Bonassola, and perhaps a glass of wine or a spritz in a seafront restaurant, before catching the train to Monterosso, in the Cinque Terre.

Shorter hike to Framura: 4 km (3mi) Ascent/Descent: 577 m/ 587 m (1890 ft/ 1925 ft)

Hike to Bonassola: 11 km (7mi) Ascent/Descent: 577 m/ 587 m (1890 ft/ 1925 ft)

Take a train (payable locally) to Bonassola this morning to begin the hike along the old railway tracks recently transformed into an even, easy path. Enjoy an array of terrain as the path travels through tunnels, over bridges, and along the rugged coastline into the green interior valley of Levanto. The idyllic village of Levanto’s skyline is pierced by church spires and towers. You might like to end your hike here and spend time on the sandy beach before taking a train back to Monterosso.

Leaving the railway path behind and heading onto the mountain paths. Upon reaching the ridgetop at Colla Bagari, take a moment to absorb the sweeping views of the rolling mountains surrounding the “Gulf of Paradise” and the Cinque Terre villages that the trail will be heading through over the coming days. Arriving at Punta Mesco, descending along olive groves and vines to Monterosso, with its large sandy beach and calm waters. Why not take a refreshing swim to cool your feet after a good day’s hiking.

Alternatively, for anyone not wishing to hike today why not spend the day relaxing on the beach, a seafront bar, or wandering around the colorful street in Monterosso, the first of the Cinque Terre villages explored on this trip.

Shorter hike to Levanto: 4 km (3 mi) Ascent/Descent: 72 m/ 60 m (235 ft/ 197 ft)

Hike to Monterosso: 11 km/ 7mi Ascent/Descent: 588m/593m (1930 ft / 1945 ft)

With the included Cinque Terre Trails & Rail Card in hand it’s time this morning to hop on the train, sit back and enjoy the views over the sea on the way to Manarola (trains depart about every 30 minutes). Manarola is widely thought to be the most charming and beautiful of the Cinque Terre villages with its colourful buildings clinging to the cliff edge, the terraced green hillside above, and the azure blue waters colliding with the rocky coastline below. There are two possible options today. If you are taking the shorter option then there is ample time to explore the village and perhaps have lunch in one of the many restaurants and cafes found here.

The shorter walking option between Manarola and Riomaggiore uses the original path linking the villages. Although they are quite close together there is a mountain separating them, so the trail although short in distance is a steep ascent and descent including many stone steps. Thanks to the high position the Via Beccara path does afford amazing sea views over the dramatic Cinque Terre coastline including a bird’s eye view of Manarola and Riomaggiore. The path climbs pass the terraced vineyards along the mountainside. This is the most technically challenging of the walks on this tour and is not suitable for anyone with a fear of heights or suffering from vertigo. We also won't recommend it for anyone with bad knees.

If you prefer to walk from Manarola to Corniglia, you will follow the cobbled Passeggiata Birolli uphill from the marina, and continue along the coastal hillside above the sea. The trail levels out before reaching a hanging bridge over a scree slope, leading you towards Corniglia. (Please note this path is currently closed).

After time to explore Corniglia or Riomaggiore, take the train back to Monterosso.

Alternatively, for anyone not wanting to walk today there’s the choice of spending time in Monterosso or using the included Cinque Terre Trails & Rail Card to ride the rails and explore Manarola, Corniglia and Riomaggiore this way instead of doing the mountain walk.

This evening, dine “al fresco” at one of the many delicious restaurants lining the piazza and historic centre, especially for a hot pot of freshly caught steamed seafood, a Ligurian specialty.

Manarola to Riomaggiore (via Beccara): 191 m/ 194 m (626 ft/ 636 ft)

Manarola to Corniglia: 6 km (4 mi) Ascent/Descent: 378 m/ 387 m (1270 ft / 1270 ft) - Currently closed.

After breakfast, take the train to Corniglia for a steep, but well worth it, hike back to Monterosso. Corniglia is the quietest, and least crowded of the Cinque Terre villages, making its backstreets a delight to wander through before beginning the hike.

Follow the path as it goes up-and-down to Vernazza, the most perfect picture postcard of the villages. This fortified village is the only natural harbor in the Cinque Terre and is still used by fisherman with their boats bobbing in the protected waters surrounded by the elegant, colorful buildings. Some of the original village walls and the Doria Castle watch tower remain today, which were used to defend this valuable resource. This historic fishing community is also home to Santa Margherita d’Anticochia Church, the Sanctuary of our Lady of Regio, and the Convent of the Reformed Fathers of St. Francis. There is the option of leaving the hike here and taking the train back to Monterosso.

The hike continues to follow the panoramic path from Vernazza to Monterosso giving yet more wonderful seascape views along the way. On arrival back in Monterosso cool down with a tasty gelato.

As an alternative hike you might undertake a circular walk from Monterosso ("Walking through the Jurassic") where you hike inland through the forest passing by rock formations and have amazing views.

Shorter hike to Vernazza: 4km (3mi) Ascent/Descent: 449 m/ 472 m (1473 ft/ 1550 ft)

Walk to Monterosso: 8 km (5 mi) Ascent/Descent: 449 m/ 472 m (1473 ft/ 1550 ft)

Circular hike Monterosso: 9 km (6 mi) Ascent/Descent: 500 m / 515 m (1640 ft/ 1690 ft

To begin the final hike, take the train back to Riomaggiore to walk out of Cinque Terre and into the hillside bordering Portovenere. The town is another UNESCO World Heritage Site and artist haven that’s inspired painters, musicians, and literary greats such as Byron and D.H. Lawrence.

Hike to Colle del Telgrafo following the ridgeline to Campiglia and descend to Portovenere with its brightly colored houses. Stacked side-by-side, these houses once served as a united wall aimed to withstand attacks from pirates (look closely and it’s possible to still see the holes and marks that scar its sides) and are now one of Portovenere’s iconic treasures.

Visit the black-and-white striped Gothic Church of St. Peter, its nearby cemetery, and the stone fortress overlooking the Gulf of Poets.

Alternatively, depending on the day of the week, it is possible to travel by ferry from Riomaggiore to Portovenere instead of hiking.

Riomaggiore to Portovenere: 13 km (8 mi) Ascent/Descent: 634 m/ 653 m (2080 ft / 2140 ft)

Depending on travel arrangements, we suggest adding an extra day to spend more time exploring Portovenere’s labyrinth walls, taking a boat to nearby Palmaria Island, or unwinding by the sea.

To depart from Portovenere there is a local bus or taxis to La Spezia. From here take a to Genoa, Pisa, or Florence airports.