Via Francigena Final Stage: Montefiascone to Rome

Arrive in Montefiascone from where there are delightful views over Lake Bolsena and the Crimini Mountains. Spend time here discovering the frescoes in San Flaviano, many of which were attributed to unknown painters from nearby Siena and which depict the lives of early martyrs. Also visit the Fortress of the Popes, an imposing building which dominates Montefiascone’s skyline. This evening enjoy a chilled glass of Est! Est!! Est!!, the wine that this region is famous for.

The trail that you are following today takes you on a plain that divides Lake Bolsena from the Cimini Mountains. A great highlight is encountering the Bagnaccio thermal pools. Don’t forget to pack a swimming suit so that you can take a break here. The pools are steamy and milky green and are the result of a natural volcanic hot spring. The Romans used to bathe here and little has changed at this site for 2,000 years.

Arrive in Viterbo, the best preserved medieval town in Lazio and the 13th century residence of the popes.

On this part of the Via Francigena, you will follow the route that takes you past Lake Vico which is nestled in the Cimini Hills that rise up from the plains. It is a beautiful and unspoilt area full of mature oak woodlands that drop down to the crystal clear lake. In medieval towns pilgrims also took this route to avoid a marshy plain where the risk of getting malaria was very high.

Once you are past Lake Vico spend the night in Caprarola whose countryside is dominated by the Renaissance mansion of Villa Farnese, originally a fortress.

Depart from Caprarola and follow a trail which traverses the summit ridges of the Cimini Hills with beautiful views everywhere you turn. These volcanic hills are densely wooded and part of the Antiapennine range.

As you approach Sutri you can see that it is situated picturesquely and dramatically on a tuff hill. During Roman times it occupied a commanding position on the road to Etruria and you will be able to discover its amazing Roman ruins, specifically the Roman amphitheatre which was carved out of the tuff rock, the Etruscan necropolis’s which have again been formed out of the rock and the Mithraem, a place of worship, which has now been converted into the Church of Santa Maria del Parto and has amazing frescoes. Interestingly Sutri is also situated along the Via Cassia, a road linking Rome with northern Italy and at certain stretches you will walk along this ancient route too.

Today includes walks through fields and past rivers and impressive waterfalls, such as Monte Gelato which is a great place to relax, swim and have a break. Continue to follow the trail which becomes a flagged Roman road and which eventually leads you to Campagnano di Roma, first mentioned in 1076. As you approach you will see it rising above the landscape.

It is possible to shorten the walk by starting in the village of Monterosi from where you continue to Campagnano di Roma (shortening the distance to 24km/15mi). Please let us know in advance if you would like to take this option so we can organise this for you.

On your route today pass the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sorbo which is dramatically positioned on a rocky spur overlooking the Sorbo Valley and then pass the interesting Etruscan ruins of Veii which in the 6th century was the greatest centre for the fabrication of terra-cotta sculptures in Etruria. In its heyday Veii was as big as Athens and had a population of about 100,000 inhabitants. Spend time here exploring the ruins before continuing on to Isola Farnese, the location of your stay tonight.

From Isola Farnese you follow the authentic route on the Via Francigena along the Via Trionfale. Although this is the official route please note that you will be walking through the suburbs of Rome so it will be quite noisy with lots of traffic.

Should you follow the Via Trionfale into Rome you will also walk through two major parks, the Insugherata and Mt Mario. It is amazing when you behold the sight of central Rome with its many iconic buildings and particularly St Peter’s which you will see from the top of the 139m Mount Mario on the north-western side of the city. It’s a great place to sit and have your packed lunch before walking along the Viale Angelico to complete your journey.

If you are not particular about taking the authentic route from Isola Farnese to Rome, you have 2 other choices: 1) take a train to Rome (payable locally), or 2) take a transfer (at an additional cost) to Insugherata Park which is the beginning of the Via Appia Antica, which you can follow into Rome. This shortens the distance to 15km/9mi and offers a nicer experience. 

After breakfast your walking holiday will come to an end. See the Travel Info section for some useful details for your onward travel.