Camino Le Puy Way: Stage 6

Arrive in Aire sur l’Adour in the Landes region and check into your comfortable hotel. This ancient town has two distinct parts, the lower section by the river with the St Jean Baptiste Cathedral and the upper town which has the brick built Gothic Church of St Quitterie built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. This church is dedicated to St Quiteria who, according to Christian tradition, was beheaded here in the 5th century. 

Walking in the Landes region is quite easy has this area is quite flat. The route continues to be waymarked with blue and yellow cockle shell stickers as well as the familiar red and white balises.

You will see your first view of the snow-capped Pyrenees today as you enter the department of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques. Your first stop is Pontet and en route you also pass the magnificent 11th century Church of Miramont Sensacq formerly dedicated to St James and which contains a total immersion font for christening infants. Arrive in Miramont Sensacq, your overnight stop.

On departing Miramont Sensacq you reach Arzacq-Arraziguet, a bastide town with two main squares. This town has an interesting beginning as when it was founded in the 13th and 14th centuries it was actually in France and not in the Béarn, which was then an independent country. This town used to mark the boundary between France and Béarn.

Pass the modern Church of St Martin in Louvigny and follow the road along the ridge until you reach Fichous-Riumayou and eventually Larreule, the site of a Benedictine monastery founded in 995. The name of this town derives from the word Le Règle meaning monastic rule. When you reach Larreule you must call the hotel owner and he will come to find you and take you to Casteide Candau.

Today the hotel owner will transport you to Pomps so that you may continue on the trail. Pomps has a 17th century church with an interesting octagon-shaped tower. In Castillon there is a an 11th century church of St Pierre that was used as a hospital for pilgrims and travellers at that time. The restored Romanesque Chapelle of Caubin, which you also pass by, is on the site of the remains of a former Commandery of the Knight of St John.

Also walk through the long and narrow town of Arthez-de-Béarn (nearly 2km from one end to the other!) which is situated along a ridge. See some interesting old houses and ramparts, remnants from the Wars of Religion.

This morning you will encounter one of the greatest sights of the Camino Le Puy Way, the Cistercian Abbey of Sauvelade, founded by Gaston IV of Béarn in 1128. Before reaching the abbey follow the Gave de Pau from which there are stunning views over the faraway mountains.

Upon reaching Sauvelade it is worth stopping to view the abbey and its statue of St James before continuing on through the farmyard of Labarthe. Then cross a ford before arriving in the medieval bastide town of Navarranx with its rustic and elegant houses. In former times this town had a large population of cagot (outcasts), many of whom became important public figures in the 20th century. Its Italian–style fortifications have lasted until this day and it is worth strolling through this charming and historic town.

As you depart the fortified town of Navarrenx you cross a bridge over the river and head towards Castenau-Camblong with its Béarn-style houses. You will pass two chateaux today, Montgaston and Joantho, the former you can visit, but the latter is privately owned. Once you get close to Lichos you have now crossed from the Béarn into French Basque country. Over the next few days, as you walk from one region to the next, the change in landscapes from green wooded hillsides to steep farm country with lofty conifers becomes more and more apparent.

As Lichos is off the GR65 footpath you will need to read your map carefully this morning to get back on the main route. As you reach south of Lichos and back on the GR65 path you will see the Stele de Gibraltar to the right, a stone cross that marks where the three French Camino routes of Le Puy, Vezelay and Tours were thought to have met. Now officially in the Basque country many of the signs are written in the Basque language and in every town and village there is a pelota court (a traditional Basque game).

En route to Larceveau you will also go through Ostabat-Asme, a small village today, but in the Middle Ages it was a very important gathering point for pilgrims coming along the different routes. At this time in history the hospitals and inns along the route were able to accommodate up to 5000 pilgrims at a time, but today there is just a gite d’etape and the Maison Optalier.

Arrive into Larceveau where you anticipate your last day of walking along the trail tomorrow and into St Jean Pied de Port.

Today is the last stage of the Camino le Puy Way and as you walk along you are constantly greeted with magnificent views of the snow-capped Pyrenees.

Walk through Ainchice Mongelos and see the ancient chapel of Bustince before walking uphill through St Jean le Vieux and arriving in St Jean Pied de Port, your final destination. It is a small town, only 8km from the border of Spain and has ancient cobbled streets  and several places of interest, such as the Citadelle, and the Prison des Evêques. Also note the houses built in the Basque-style that have ornate wooden overhangs at roof level. Just as other pilgrims have done you will enter the town along the GR65 by the Porte St Jacques.

Bid farewell to the Camino Le Puy today. After breakfast check out of your hotel and make your onward journey.