Dordogne: Sarlat & the Périgord Noir

Sarlat-la-Caneda is a marvellous medieval town and capital of the Périgord Noir. After settling into your centrally located accommodation begin exploring the warren of old lanes and charming courtyards with their fine 15th and 16th century pale-ochre buildings.

After a short transfer (10 mins) to the village of St Vincent le Paluel, begin today’s walk by heading into the peaceful countryside. At times you pass through farmland and little communities with stone houses and also take wooded trails with glimpses of a chateau, small rivers and streams.

When you arrive back in Sarlat and you are lucky enough to be here on a Saturday, you can saunter through the fabulous local market.

Ascent/Descent: 188m/159m

After a delicious breakfast in your delightful accommodation, a transfer (20 mins) brings you to Carsac and the beginning of today’s tranquil walk. Begin by heading out of Carsac on a bike trail and cross over the Dordogne River into the charming countryside, past farms and apple orchards.

This region is famous for its walnut production (in medieval times walnuts were so valuable they were often used as a form of currency) and evidence of this is present all around you with a multitude of walnut orchards.

Arrive in the pretty fortified small town of Domme with its amazing position overlooking a wide sweep of the Dordogne Valley.

Ascent/Descent: 263m/148m

Dinner: Domme

Today’s wonderful day of walking takes you out of Domme and next to the Dordogne River along a quiet track. See the fortifications of Castelnaud in the distance, before crossing the river and strolling into the incredible towering stronghold of Beynac, once besieged by Richard the Lionheart. A break here is highly recommended and you can follow the narrow (and steep!) lanes up to the chateau and perhaps enjoy lunch in a café terrace with stunning views over the river.

Continue through the serene countryside to dramatic La Roque Gageac and its overhanging cliffs and ochre-coloured stone houses sheltering underneath.

Ascent/Descent: 325m/470m

Dinner: La Roque Gageac

Leave La Roque Gageac via its quaint cobbled lanes and head into the adjacent rolling hills and woodlands between here and Vitrac. Pause en route at an auberge for a delightful lunch of local produce (and a delicious glass of Bergerac) before arriving in tiny Vitrac with its pretty church, which you may explore before heading north through peaceful farms and woodland.

Pass stone bories (drystone huts),  small country hamlets and experience incredible views, as you walk back into La Roque Gageac.

Ascent/Descent: 426m/426m

A transfer (25mins) brings you to St Cyprien and the beginning of your walk north to Les Eyzies, with its towering cliffs and home to the Museé National de la Préhistoire.

The outset of today’s walk takes you close to the village of Meyrals and through farmyards, cornfields (in season) and scenic countryside, before following trails through numerous shady woodlands. Pass the Font du Gaume as you stroll into Les Eyzies, located on the Vézère River.

Ascent/Descent: 220m/212m

Cross the tranquil Vézère River and take a trail alongside it before passing through a wooded area and the small hamlet of Les Plagnes. Pass the turning for the Grotte du Cirq (also named the Cave of the Witches and worth a short detour for a visit) and continue on into the village of St Cirq.

Walk for a while with views of dramatic cliffs on the other side of the river as Les Eyzies itself comes into view.

Ascent/Descent: 199m/223m

From Sarlat you can take a train to major gateways for your onward journeys.