Newfoundland Coastal Hiking Relaxed

Fly into St. John’s, Newfoundland, and pick up your rental car (or you may have driven from your home). Your boutique inn is only a 15-minute drive, nestled in the historic fishing village of Quidi Vidi. Today The Gut, as the harbor is known, provides the stage for Quidi Vidi Brewery, the province’s largest brewery, and Mallard Cottage, one of the oldest wooden buildings in North America and home to an award-winning restaurant. Enjoy a pint made from iceberg water, snap a photo of the evening light playing on the craggy cliffs, and nestle into your room.

Waking up in Quidi Vidi is both bewildering and dreamlike; tucked into your traditional inn in a sleepy seaside hamlet, you couldn’t feel further away from the stress of daily life. Begin an invigorating hike by ascending Signal Hill, the site of St. John’s harbor defenses for over three centuries. The location of the first transatlantic wireless signal in 1901, this National Historic Site offers a visitor’s center with historic exhibits explaining its military and communications history. Soak in the 360-degree views, including the entrance to St. John’s Harbor (aka The Narrows), before descending to Battery Road.

With an easy detour into the historic downtown district of St. John’s, the afternoon offers the chance to explore the cultural and culinary delights of the province’s capital. Stop by The Rooms, a heritage museum with cultural and artistic displays, try a local specialty like fish ‘n’ brewis or toutons, or simply wander among the bright facades of Jellybean Row.

Hike: 5.5 mi +/-700 ft

Part of the 300+ km East Coast Trail network, your hike today starts in the community of Blackhead. Trek over the headlands and through the heath, fen, and tuckamore that distinguish this rugged and wind-battered landscape. In early summer, keep your eyes on the water for whales but later in the season, don’t forget to look down as ripe blueberries make the perfect trail snack.

The Cape Spear Lighthouse marks the most easterly point in North America, where you can face east to the open Atlantic Ocean. This is the oldest surviving lighthouse in the province and an iconic symbol to Newfoundlanders. If you visit early in the season you may be lucky enough to spot enormous icebergs cruising past Cape Spear, sent annually from the glaciers of Greenland and the Canadian Arctic.

Hike: 3.5 mi  +/- 900 ft

Say goodbye to the populous and bustling Avalon Peninsula, and head east – and even further back in time - to the Bonavista Peninsula, where small fishing villages dot the winding coastline of Trinity Bight (a ‘bight’ is an open bay created by a bending coast). The town of Trinity, more recently known for its theatre, still holds the essence of a bygone era. A short hike to the top of Gun Hill offers an expansive panorama of sky, cliffs, and sea.

You’ll want to reach Port Rexton with plenty of time this evening, where you’ll be treated to a garden-to-fork feast at the table of your family-run inn.  You’ll have a chance to see some of the property’s impressive gardens, and hear stories of its history and diverse art, over the next several days.

Hike: 2 mi +/- 450 ft

With coastal views, sea stacks, and unique geology (it used to be part of North Africa!), the Skerwink Trail may be your favorite of the week. One of Travel and Leisure magazine’s top hikes in Europe & North America, this loop walk sounds quick but expect to spend several hours exploring the nooks and crannies of Skerwink Head, taking in views of Trinity and Port Rexton harbors, and scouting for the spout of a whale or a passing iceberg.

Opt for an afternoon hike as well on the Fox Island Trail, a similar-length loop that encircles the craggy peninsula to the north of Port Rexton. Enjoy this winding walkway with equally impressive views and several pebbled beaches where you can dip your toes in the Atlantic. Top off the day with a visit to the Port Rexton Brewing Co. for a taste of the local nectar, or simply enjoy a refreshment on the porch of your characterful inn.

Hike: 4 mi +/- 300 ft

Optional hike: 3.5 mi +/- 150 ft

The Bonavista Peninsula offers a rich variety of ecological and cultural highlights within a short drive, so head out early for a full day of adventure. First, stop in Port Union, the only Union-built town in North America, which was established on a deep water harbor in the first years of the 20^th century. An optional walk, the Murphy’s Cove trail offers expansive views, glimpses of whales and seabirds, and a viewpoint overlooking Green Island lighthouse. Continue along the peninsula to Elliston, the Root Cellar Capital of the World, home to an impressive Atlantic puffin nesting site where you can view and photograph these birds from the rocky headland. Check out the Sealer’s Memorial Museum for a dose of local history.

Leave time to explore Bonavista, however, as the Cape Shore Trail and Cape Bonavista Lighthouse provide unobstructed ocean panoramas, possible iceberg sightings, and a perfect seaside stroll to stretch your legs. Then head into the quiet village for a walk among the colorful fishing boats and a delicious meal at a local restaurant.

Hike: 5.5 mi  +/- 90 ft

Optional hike: 4.5 mi +/- 160 ft 

Depending on your plans, drive back to St. John’s (3 hours). Saying goodbye to ‘the rock’ can be tough, but hopefully at this point you’ve experienced the magic of this timeless island, and can bring a little bit home with you.