Hiking Through Time: Hiking Turkey’s Lycian Way on a Seven-Day Self-Guided Adventure 

Julie Fison immerses herself in history, nature and tranquility on a seven-day self-guided Macs Adventures hike on the west section of the Lycian Way in southern Turkey. 

Lost (and Found) in the Ancient City of Phellos 

It's the second day of our hike. Our driver has dropped us in the middle of an isolated pine forest. We have huffed and puffed our way up a mountain trail, powered down the other side, then missed a crucial turn-off. Now, having retraced our steps and followed the signpost, we’re hiking up a narrow path, getting deeper into the dense woodland, and I’m beginning to lose faith. Our destination this morning: Phellos. The ancient city is thought to date back to the 6th century BCE and was once a thriving centre of Lycian life.  

An ancient settlement – way up here? Someone is surely joking at our expense.  

But then I spot something solid and large. A huge stone sarcophagus is fighting for space amongst the thorny vegetation, just a few metres off the trail. A little further along, we come across another tomb. Then another. The trail opens up to reveal a cluster of giant sarcophagi standing silently among the thistles in the bright fall sunshine. The entire scene is utterly surreal. My husband and I are literally the only people here. I know we’re not the first to uncover ancient Phellos – we do have a map, after all – but it certainly feels like it.  

There’s nothing like finding a virtually untouched 2600-year-old tomb on the top of a mountain to give you an Indiana Jones complex.  

A Trail Carved by Civilizations: History Beneath Every Footstep 

Mystery still surrounds the people who built these tombs, but evidence of their incredible stonework and reverence for the dead is everywhere along the full 335-mile (540km) Lycian Way. The trail from Fethiye to Antalya connects ancient paths, mule tracks and old Roman roads. It passes through fragrant pine forests and olive groves, crosses desolate thistle-strewn hillsides, winds its way up towering mountains and down long rocky paths. It follows lofty ridges that overlook the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. It's a spectacular hike – recently named the world’s most beautiful walk – but it’s more than that. It’s also a lesson in history. A record of the civilizations that flourished on the Teke Peninsula in ancient times, and that’s what makes it really special for me.   

From Cliffside Tombs to Mountain Ridges Above the Mediterranean 

We’re spending seven days hiking sections of the western end of the trail and carry just daypacks while our luggage is transferred to our next destination. I feel like an intrepid archaeologist from the very first day. The trail, which is only sparsely marked and would be difficult to follow without the Macs navigation app, takes us over a challenging rocky headland and then up a vertical cliff face. At the top, a narrow, roped ledge leads to a pair of Lycian tombs that are literally carved into the rock face, high above the coastline.  

Every day we come across more ancient ruins, more huge sarcophagi. Phellos wins my award for the most unexpected encounter, but ancient Patara stands out as the most impressive.  

This harbor city became the capital of Lycia in the first century BCE, and was later absorbed into the Roman Empire, becoming a vital port for wheat shipments. The magnificent triumphal arch, the grand boulevard, the agora and the theater that once hosted gladiators and animal fights are all spectacular. Crowds of tourists arrive by car and bus to explore one of Turkey’s most important archaeological sites, but there’s something very different about arriving on foot. We started the day at the Delikkemer aqueduct, hiked along the Roman water system, through olive groves, past countless sarcophagi baking in the sun, before arriving at Patara some four hours later. I feel more like a pilgrim than a tourist and get a little miffed that I have to share these marvellous antiquities with vacationers.  

Am I getting spoilt? Yes, absolutely. 

Solitude, Wildlife and the Joy of an Uncrowded Trail 

At a time when over-tourism has infected every corner of the globe, the Lycian Way feels like a breath of fresh mountain air. We spot tortoises among the mossy paths, a wild boar, and lots of goats, but we literally pass only a handful of hikers the entire week. With the exception of the last day, when we walk towards the picturesque coastal town of Oludeniz, we almost have the trail to ourselves. Bliss.  

Evenings of Comfort: Pansiyons, Pools and Well-Earned Margaritas 

At the end of every day, when I've done enough tranquil self-reflection, had my fill of mountain views and ancient sarcophagi, and I’m ready to find my way back to the modern world, I’m delighted to discover our accommodation for the night. We stay in lovely family-run pansiyons with beautiful pools and leafy garden terraces. My favorite: the Dardanos in Patara, where the owner runs a stylish boutique hotel, serves a fabulous breakfast and knows how to make a mean margarita. Now, that really is bliss.  

Julie Fison is an author, travel writer and Macs adventurer who enjoys sharing tips for midlife adventure. You can see more of her stories at www.juliefison.com